Camino Day 0: St. Jean Pied de Port

The traditional El Camino de Santiago or Way of St. James starts from a tiny town in the south of France, some of the most beautiful countryside I’ve ever seen. We took a train from Paris to Bayonne and there was nothing to do but look out the window. Everything was so green, with hills rolling and perfect red-roofed and gabled houses. After we arrived at Bayonne, we took a bus to get to St. Jean.

St. Jean Pied de Port around sunset. 

On the bus, I couldn’t stop that nervous feeling bubbling up from my stomach through my chest. The bus made several stops in little villages on the way to let out a few older passengers, most with canes and berets. At every stop I found myself praying this wasn’t ours. Because the closer we arrived to St. Jean, the closer we arrived to the beginning of what could possibly be a mistake. I’m always like this, dreading the beginning of the thing, instead of the actual thing itself. We finally pulled in and walked with all the other pilgrims towards the office to get our Camino credencial, a passport of sorts that would be stamped with the name of all the albergues we slept in and towns we walked through.

After we got our credencials, we went to the albergue to put down our bags and find a place for dinner. I was surprised at the age of many of the pilgrims there. I imagined walking with younger people or others around our age, but many of the pilgrims were in their 50s, some in their 60s, and many doing this for the second or third time. It was encouraging and intimidating at the same time to see so many different people planning to take this journey.

 I had no idea what to expect. I had a hard time falling asleep because I was excited, scared, full of anticipation, and of course, bombarded by the snoring of almost every other person in the room. Tomorrow: follow the yellow shells to Santiago!

Another Year Over

(photo)

A year ago today, on August 15th, Kenny and I landed in Incheon airport and began the long process of settling down. A few weeks later, we were moved into this apartment in Wonju. This little place has become a precious home. It's the first place we've lived together, considering the first 6 months of our honeymoon were spent alternating between mountain shacks, jungle huts, sweltering hostels, 5-star hotels, and one of the guest rooms in my parents' house. We have snuggled down into a routine here. We know the back roads; we know where to get good coffee; we know where to find smiling, kind faces.

And most of all, Wonju has been comfortable. This year of our lives has been so domestic, so tranquil, and perfectly lovely. So, obviously, the things to do now is shake things up. So, in February, when my contract with my current employer is up, we're packing up all our stuff, storing it at the parents-in-law's place, and heading out for our next big adventure.

On February 21, 2011, we will celebrate our 2 year wedding anniversary. One week later, I will work my last day at Yonsei ELP. And one week after that will find us with backpacks strapped on headed for our second honeymoon. We are hiking El Camino de Santiago. Yup. That's what's next on the big trip agenda. We'll start from the south of France at St. Jean-Pied-de-Port and make our way through Spain to Santiago de Compostela. It's the most traditional route, and also the most well-known. We're looking to make our journey in 35 days, but we all know how slow I am. Unlike our Annapurna trek, I won't be able to have a wonderful porter carry my bag. I'll be doing it myself.

Yes, I am scared. Yes, I am excited. Yes, I am so ready to challenge myself. We may begin our traveling by hitting a few spots in Europe first (Prague, I'm looking at you) and finishing up with a week or two in Barcelona.

And after that? Your guess is as good as mine! NOW is the time to start your life over every other year. NOW is the time to travel to places and do things that once we're tied to a house payment, or children, we won't be able to do. NOW is the time to risk spending most of our money (besides our savings) on seeing the world, doing something magnificent and difficult and of worth, and come back to nothing. NOW is the time to start over as many times as we feel like it. NOW is the time to not know what to do with my life or where it's going. NOW is the time to celebrate our marriage and rejoice in the fact that without each other, neither of us would be going on these adventures. NOW is the time to refine ourselves through sweat and heavy luggage, and hard-earned sleep.

So, I have 6 months to read, plan, read, hike, read, get stronger, read, plan, and leave. Woot.

(photo by cornyvall)

P.S. I'd like to say for the record that we still have not purchased toilet paper. ONE YEAR and we have not had to buy toilet paper or laundry detergent. And this isn't the end. It's not like we're about to run out. We still have tons of it stacked in the storage closet and on the veranda behind a screen. I remember thinking it was so silly to give toilet paper as a gift. Now, I completely understand. And you know, it's just a funny housewarming gift. Talk about community! What a beautiful year of our lives has just been lived.